Warranties

Care & Finishing

Wood Doors

PREPARATION FOR FINISHING

1. Before applying the first coat of finish, remove all handling marks, raised grain and other undesirable blemishes by sanding all surfaces with 180 grit sandpaper (this applies to both raw wood and primed doors). For doors with shaker sticking, lightly ease the outside edge of the sticking with sandpaper. To avoid cross-grain scratches, sand with the grain. NOTE: small amounts of grease, oil or pitch can be wiped clean with denatured alcohol or turpentine.

2. Adjust or align components if necessary before finishing. Wood panels "float" and may be knocked into alignment with a wood block and hammer. Be careful not to damage door.

3. After sanding, clean door thoroughly with a cloth to remove all dust or foreign material. Do not use caustic or abrasive cleaners.

4. Hang door before finishing, and then remove to finish properly. This will allow the finisher to lay the door in a flat position. Doors must be properly sealed prior to installation of hardware and exposure to moisture or weather. Properly finish door immediately before prolonged storage.

5. All surfaces of the door must be properly finished. The edges (top, bottom and sides) should be coated with each and every coat of finish that is applied to the exterior surface of the door. Doors must be dry before finishing.

6. On doors that are glazed with clear glass, the finish used should be flowed from the wood slightly onto the glass. This will provide assurance against water leakage and protect the glazing compound "putty" from drying out. Excess putty can be removed, just make sure to not use anything sharp like a razor blade, as glass can be scratched.

7. NOTE: It is the finisher's responsibility to protect glass prior to and during finishing. If using tape, conduct a test of the tape being used on a small area of the glass before applying to a large surface. After finishing, remove the tape as soon as possible.

8. On doors that have plastic film protection on glass, removal of plastic film protection immediately after applying the finish is required. Failure to remove the plastic film at this time may cause harm to the glass and will create difficulty in removing the film at a later time. Do not use razor blades or sharp objects to remove the film or clean the glass. These items will scratch the glass.

Exterior Finishing

Stain/Clear Finish

The recommended process for finishing Simpson doors is a 3-step process. Step 1: application of a wood conditioner. Step 2: application of a stain. Step 3: application of at least three top coats of a clear finish. When selecting the finishes for these three steps, select products that have been designed to work together.

A wood conditioner prepares the wood to accept finish uniformly and helps to spread the finish evenly. When selecting a wood conditioner, the type of conditioner needs to match the stain. For example a water-based conditioner for a water-based stain or an oil-based conditioner for an oil-based stain.

Stains are available in a wide range of colors. Whatever color you select should have an alkyd-resin base. Under no circumstances should a lacquer-based finish system be used on exterior doors.

The three (minimum) top coats may be a solvent-borne (oil-base, alkyd resin-base, polyurethane resin-base) or a water-borne (acrylic resin-base) clear finish. See notes (1) and (2) below.

The advantages and disadvantages of solvent-borne vs. water-borne clear finishes are as follows:

1. Solvent-Borne Advantages: Cures faster, harder and more water resistant. May be applied under variable weather conditions. Disadvantages: Subject to ultraviolet degradation and not as flexible or durable as water-borne clear finish.

2. Water-Borne Advantages: Very flexible, greater ultraviolet resistance, and good exterior durability. Disadvantages: Cannot be applied below 50º F, long curing period required, and may not fully cure for several weeks. Water-sensitive until cure is complete.

NOTE: Do not sand between coats of clear acrylic. All stain-and-clear finishes will perform measurably better if protected from the direct effects of sunlight and weathering, and refinishing will not be required as frequently.

Paint Finish

Either oil-base or acrylic resin-base exterior grade paints may be used with success on panel doors. Oil-base paints offer more resistance to the passage of water (liquid and vapor) than acrylic resin-base paints, but the latter have better durability and color retention.

Doors should be sealed with a good quality oil-base primer followed by two top coats of either an oil-base or acrylic resin-base paint. Of course, both primer and top coat should be made by the same manufacturer and designed to be used as a combination.

If the door has been provided factory-primed, there is some basic prep work that needs to be done before painting. All primed surfaces should be scuff sanded to encourage better paint adhesion. Any rough areas of primer or machined wood should also be sanded. For doors provided with WaterBarrier® technology, neither the exterior stile and rail surfaces nor the exterior divided lite bars (made from PVC) are to be sanded.

INSTRUCTIONS IF YOU PLAN ON PAINTING YOUR EXTERIOR DOOR A DARK COLORED PAINT (LRV less than 55)

It is becoming more common in home design to see exterior products painted a dark color. However, the combination of a dark color and UV rays from the sun can have an adverse effect on any exterior building product, including your Simpson door. Dark colors can heat up the components in the door and can cause cracking, movement and splitting. If you plan to paint your door a dark color, which is defined as a color with a light reflective value (LRV) less than 55, you must follow these instructions in order for the Simpson warranty to apply. Please note: interior doors can be painted any color.

You can paint your door a dark color as long as you follow these steps:

1. You must use a Nantucket Collection™ door (77000 series) with Accoya as the wood type and have your door factory-primed by Simpson.

2. Panels used in the door will be made from Medex (exterior grade MDF).

PPG ProLuxe Wood Finish (formerly Sikkens Cetol Door & Window finish products) are not to be used in finishing Simpson doors. This product has resulted in poor performance in the field. Use of these products will void Simpson’s warranty.

High Exposure Finishing

1. Use an oil-based primer followed by at least three top coats of a high quality oil or acrylic-based paint on the exterior. Acrylic is more durable and has better color retention.

2. Use a silicone or caulking bead (must be compatible with paint) around the perimeter of each glass pane and wood panel. This will seal the putty and prevent any moisture from running directly into the door.

3. Ensure all finish coats are allowed to flow into the glass area at least 1/16".

4. Ensure all coatings that go on the surface of the door are also applied to the top and bottom. Coat all six sides of every door, or your warranty will be voided.

5. Silicone the door bottom sweep onto the bottom of the door and apply a surface mount drip cap to the bottom of each door to allow for moisture runoff onto the sill.

6. For outswing units: Prior to finishing the top of the inactive door, be sure to fill the mortise pocket around the flush bolt prep with silicone or caulking. Moisture has a history of pooling up in this area on outswing units. Consider a thin layer of metal across the top of the door to keep moisture from direct contact with the wood.

7. Storm or screen doors may be mandatory to completely eliminate moisture problems. Storm doors must be vented to eliminate temperature build-up.

8. Performance Series® upgrades are recommended for high exposure door openings. Request WaterBarrier® and UltraBlock® technologies from your Simpson retailer to get the most life out of your door. And if you are selecting a french door, we strongly recommend specifying Simpson's WaterBarrier technology.

Paint Finish Specifics

1. "Bridge" finish from face of door to moulding, ensuring there is no gap between moulding and surface of the door.

2. "Bridge" finish as noted above on inside of panel area where moulding meets panel and/or glass.

3. Ensure all moulding miters are well-coated, leaving no gaps.

Jamb-to-Sill Specifics

1. Caulk at sill-to-jamb leg connection.

2. Use corner pads where sill meets jamb.

3. Flood flush bolt hole in sill with caulk or silicone.

Interior Finishing

Stain-and-Clear Finish

A solvent-borne or water-borne finish system can be used for interior doors and may be a lacquer-based system. If a brush application is to be used, it is recommended that a presealer be used prior to staining. For best performance, a minimum of two clear top coats should be used over stains.

Paint Finish

Doors should be sealed with a good quality bare wood primer followed by two top coats of a solvent-base or acrylic enamel.

Handling

1. Do not walk on any door units. Some units contain glass.

2. Avoid dragging doors across one another and keep doors clean.

3. Store flat on a level surface in a dry, well ventilated building.

4. Doors should be conditioned to average prevailing relative humidity of the locality before hanging.

5. Doors should not be subjected to extreme or rapid changes in heat or humidity. Avoid sudden changes such as forced heat to dry out a building.

6. If the doors are to be stored on the job site, all surfaces including ends and edges must be sealed with an effective quality oil-base sealer in order to prevent undue moisture absorption.

Maintenance

Your Simpson door has been handcrafted to last for years to come. But, like any fine piece of furniture, its finish will require some simple, periodic maintenance to keep it looking great and provide proper protection against the elements. Regular finish maintenance is also a requirement of the warranty that's included with every Simpson door.

Here are some signs to watch for. They indicate that it's time for some simple, easy-to-perform maintenance:

• Hairline cracks in the top coat of finish.

• Changes in the color of the finish.

• Changes in the texture of the finish, such as flaking or scaling.

• Dullness or chalkiness in the finish.

If you live in a severe climate or your entry receives a lot of direct sunlight from a southern or western exposure, you'll want to examine your door's finish often. Depending on the conditions, you may also need to maintain the door finish more frequently.

It is important to note that wood has inherent dynamic qualities. Over time, small surface "imperfections" may appear, and the door may shrink or swell slightly as it "breathes" with climate changes. These characteristics are perfectly normal, reflecting the natural aging process of a wood door, and they should not be considered defects. To minimize these occurrences, protect your door with the right finish and an adequate overhang.